Insider tips
The famous Bordeaux region is in trouble. A lot of wine is produced. And partly bad wines from anonymous wineries. But such shortcomings can definitely squeeze out a decent refutation – at attractive prices. This proves our choice.
Bordeaux exudes sparkle and glamour. At least that goes for the famously elite Grands Crus Classés from Médoc and the famous chateaus from St-Emilion and Pomerol. Prices for the best wines, which are in demand all over the world, sometimes rise to sky-high double or even triple digit heights. But the creme de la creme makes up no more than ten percent of the total production in Bordeaux. The territory is vast: the cultivation area around the beautifully decorated city of Bordeaux is 110 thousand hectares.
Of course, there is also the flip side of the coin in the Gironde wine region. Many unknown commodities have sales difficulties and sometimes have to sell their dips in supermarkets. They rebel and loudly protest the impasse. According to a study by the Bordeaux Chamber of Agriculture, about 15,000 hectares of vineyards must disappear in order to end overproduction, Germany’s “Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung” recently wrote. Producers are now demanding clearing premiums of €10,000 per hectare. Instead of wine, other agricultural products should be grown.
Five of Bordeaux’s lesser-known estates
Not all of the lesser-known Bordeaux wines are of poor quality. We were looking for decent products at attractive prices – and we certainly found what we were looking for. This is proved by five examples of labels that hardly anyone knows about. They provide fun without the glamour.
1. Chateau Le Doyen 2015, Côte de Bordeaux
The mature red wine comes from a 3,500-hectare appellation. Merlot dominates this pool with 60 percent. Complete with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. A bouquet of dark fruits and spicy notes as well as a medium-heavy body with ripe tannins and sweet elegance characterize Cru, which finishes with a long, subtle medium aftertaste.
2. Clos Sainte-Anne 2016, Cotes de Bordeaux
The beautifully developed Bordeaux is coming off an excellent year. As with most wines from this region, barriers are scaling. In this case it is about twelve months. Merlot makes up 90 percent, and Cabernet Franc only 10 percent. The result is impressive: medium density on the nose, pleasant fruitiness, medium body, good fullness, strong acid tannins, good length, well balanced.
3. Château Tour du Pas St-George 2016, Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion
The little-known appellation covers an area of just 199 hectares. The winery draws on all of Bordeaux’s red wines: mainly Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere. Fruity, spicy, and earthy notes are recognizable on the nose. On the palate, the wine presents itself with strength and elegance. It is fresh, medium length and ready to drink.
4. Château Sainte-Marie «Viilles Vignes» 2020, Bordeaux-Superior
The designation of origin covers a wide area and includes more than 12,000 hectares of vineyards. The wine, made up of 72 percent Merlot and 28 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, costs little, but still scores points: fruity and spicy notes, medium heavy, present tannins, good acidity, not too complex, medium length, ready to drink.
5. Château Martinon Blanc 2021, Entre deux Mers
Bordeaux also works in white. A fresh, aromatic, somewhat lighter wine that comes from the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation, which covers about 1,400 hectares. This example consists mainly of regionally typical varietals: mainly Sémillon, complemented by Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. Dry Grow from 2021 is uncomplicated and ready to drink. It is ideal as an aperitif or with light fish dishes.
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